Congratulate me! Not only have I begun my next book. But a person, somewhere in the United States, has bought my first book. But there’s more, there’s more! I have, additionally, figured out how to add “throwback posts” without actually writing extra.
I’m writing a fun guidebook to motorbiking Vietnam, from Hanoi to Saigon (HCMC). The time frame on my throwbacks lines up perfectly. So, without further ado, I believe we’ll jump from Hanoi to about a week later…
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From Ha Tinh to Phong Nha
In going over my journal from the 4th of November, I find that I have already summed up the Ha Tinh area very well:
…rode 250km to wherever the fuck I am now… oh yes, Ha Tinh! Played tag among the rice fields with various weather fronts. One caught me riding through the misty hills surrounding Hong Linh. As rain closed in from all sides, I sought refuge at Nha Nghi 99, about 8km north of central Ha Tinh. After some linguistic confusion in the “lobby” (there was also a woman bathing a child), I did some lesson planning on the 3 inch mattress in room 201.
Then I went back downstairs and asked the old man “toi co the an o’ dau” [where can I eat] and he directed me next door. There, I was ushered to a seat, then to choose which food I wanted from the pots. This old geezer was a bit greedy, I payed 50k. But while the woman prepped the food, he brought out a vodka bottle with what appeared to be shriveled potatoes floating in it. We had a drink and it was good stuff. The food was good, but the greens in broth (which the lady kept giving me more of) were nasty.
Ha Tinh has three uses as far as our journey goes: sleeping, eating (plus a drink with what’s-his-face), and leaving. So in the morning, once you have eaten and slept, it is time to be leaving and hit the road!
I got a bit confused detouring around central Ha Tinh, but I’m convinced that it was well worth it. I also added to my communist billboard collection. South of Ha Tinh, I strongly recommend taking the QL1A between Ky Van and Xom Moi, where the road meets the coast. I made exquisite time there, with hardly another vehicle in sight.
Along this road, if you’re traveling south, you’ll also catch your first sight of the Vietnamese highlands. Looking west over my shoulder, I thought the hills had been swallowed by a huge black storm front, but not so. It was just the previously large hill’s big brother mountain coming to look over his shoulder.
Meanwhile, at ground level, you may detect an odd scent. I was befuddled until the voice of Robert Downy Jr came to me as Sherlock Holmes, “Ahh, putrefaction.” I believe the yellow soil is high in sulphur content. So it continued flat and straight to the coast. The sea breeze is really refreshing and, if needed, there is a hotel and restaurant there on the beach. I cannot attest to the quality, because I continued on to Phong Nha.
Halfway to the Phong Nha turn off (turn right on DT2B after crossing the Gianh River), I could here my chain was loose and rattling. So, I pulled off in front of a local garage. After this character tightened my chain, he quickly began jabbering and pointing at my oil. Since I had been putting off a necessary oil change anyway, I asked how much. (Do you remember how?)
He insisted that it would pain him deeply to do it for anything less than 100k. I didn’t care to much about his feelings, but ended up paying 90k anyhow. That’s about 20k more than I should have payed, but the real _ came after he drained my oil.
He poured the old oil into a used bottle, which is common. They use it to lube chains. However, apparently under the impression that I wasn’t watching, the mechanic then tried to pour the same oil back into my bike! I knew better than to make a scene.
“Oi!”, I got his attention and did my best to stare seven kinds of death at the man. The cheeky little miscreant grinned, apparently complimenting me on my vigilance, and got a new oil bottle. This time, he made a great show of breaking the seal and still grinning very widely, poured the new oil into my bike.
Later, after crossing the Song Gianh (Gianh River), I followed the many Phong Nha signs to a turn off on DT2B. The country climbed easily. The pine forest and many Vietnamese cemeteries were lovely in the afternoon.